ITALY - SARDINIA

For the last week the weather has been, and still is, totally unstable.  One day the dry Mistral wind blows from the north west and the next day the unpredictable and wild Gregale howls from the North East.  And apart from the winds, the weather has got colder and incredibly damp too especially when the wind swings over to Scirrocco.   Scirrocco is a damp, clammy hot wind that blows from North Africa.  If the wind is blowing from the south, then everything has to come inside at night.  If we just leave for example a pair of shoes on deck or even under the sprayhood they are totally wet next morning.

We are sleeping once again with our quilts, we are not anchoring any more in the beautiful little bays and coves we see and we are listening to the ”Luigi – the weatherman” on VHF 68 regularly throughout the day.  Even our bathing costumes have found their way back into the cupboards and are not lying on the sofa downstairs ready to be put on for a quick swim.

Both Corsica and Sardinia are very mountainous islands with cliff faces rising up at least 100 metres and the landscape is wild and very impressive.  We are lucky to be able to see this view from the sea, and in a sailing boat because our max. Speed is no more than 15 km / hr so we can really enjoy the cliff formations as we sail towards them and vice versa as we sail away from them.

Sailing in these waters one has the misfortune of learning and experiencing the Catabatisk winds – which forces itself to blow between the high mountains to the sea.  The gale we encountered on the way to Bastia was partly due to these catabastisk winds which gusted down the valley right into the bows of poor little Sunray.

All along the coast of these two mountainous islands we are meeting these winds which manage to find a way to blow and howl over any little opening in the mountains and cliffs that we sail along. Mike is no longer with us to distract us or disturb us with any panic or excitement that only a 9 year old boy can invent.  He took the short and efficient way home to Malta – by plane.  We still have approximately 600 Nautical Miles to go and 24 hours out on the open sea between Sardinia and Sicily before we reach Malta.   Vicki often thinks, without admitting it aloud, when will we ever get home, and even skipper is starting to feel tired now.

We feel that we experienced so much in the countries we have visited, met so many weird and wonderful people that we can hardly remember them all and lived an outdoor life for almost 4 months now, so its natural to feel tired once in a while.

We’re getting tired of absorbing new experiences now and sometimes really feel exhausted.

An english couple we met told us that they have never sailed in the Bonifacio Straits in good weather (passage between Corsica and Sardinia).  Mainly because the wind that blows south along Corsica’s mountainous west coast and the wind that blows north along Sardinia’s savage west coast, meet here and have to squeeze violently through the narrow straits.  Therefore the passage here is always known for its high seas and strong winds.  We had been listening so religiously to the weather forecasts that we knew this already by now!

WE SAIL ONWARDS, decided the Skipper therefore one day in Porto Vecchio, our last stop in southern Corsica, when we heard a reasonably acceptable weather forecast.  To avoid the infamous catabanisk winds and the sea breeze that picks up late morning, we set off already at 6.00 am. On 12th September on a southern course towards the archipelago of islands that lie just north of Sardinia in the Bouches de Bonifacio.

For once we were lucky, because we had the most perfect passage one could dream of as we cruised past Isola Razzoli and between Isola Budelli and Spargi, we could enjoy the views of the emerald seas and tiny beaches hidden along the coasts of these tiny islands.  It was unbelievably beautiful.  OK how many times have we written that in our logbook now! J).  Unfortunately I was sick with fever that day so we had to just enjoy the view and sail onwards to Isola La Maddalena, our next stop

Isola La Maddalena – and the town La Maddalena – which is the main island and ”capital” is a sight for sore eyes.  A tiny harbour with colourful fishing boats and yachts all mixed up together.  Narrow streets where Gucci, Armani and Dolce e Gabbana lie side by side with old fish shops!

For the first time since Mike left us we felt happy and relaxed and could feel our morale, strength and confidence flowing back again.  We stayed here for 2 days and spoilt ourselves with a lovely lunch in a local fish restaurant, bought loads from the little fish shop in the harbour, enjoyed drinking a glass of cold white wine on deck and walked up and down the pedestrian streets hundreds of times stopping at regular intervals for espressos, Avernas and ice creams – YUM!

Sadly we had to say goodbye to this little island paradise and set curse towards Porto Cervo on Sardinia’s mainland.  Our ”weather man” warned us of gales arriving at 2.00 pm so our plan to anchor and swim in the deliciously transparent sea had to be changed to a quick goodbye to Maddalena and a quick 2 hour motor sailing down to the most chic and well known harbour in the Mediterranean.  (Forget St. Tropez, Monaco and Portofino) Porto Cervo was built as a personal prestige project by the Agnelli family (Fiat) and the Aga Khan.  This is where the rich and famous congregate in the Summer Season.  This is where the yearly Swan Cup, Rolex Cup and other famous regattas f.eks. the 12 metre and Americas Cup boats, take place.  We were so lucky to arrive while the 12 meter Classic  Boat Regatta was being held.  Impressive.

And so it is therefore the most expensive harbour to visit – so we wanted to have a receipt for the Harbour Fees for our logbook!

The club magazine is full of pictures of film stars, royalty and famous sailors.  There is a swimming pool at the club house, a huge bar area with leather sofas … serious luxury here.  The advert on the back page of the club magazine …..? Bentley of course !  Beat that Kaløvig!

That afternoon the wind really built up, as did our friendship with Sheila, David and Jonathan Gardhouse from England, together with their ”crew” Mark.  They had just picked up their brand new 47 ft. Beneteau in France and were on their way to Tunisia to winter there.  The wind blew for 3 days in Porto Cervo and our friendship with ”Fear of Flying” grew and grew.

Unfortunately they had had some damages done to their boat during the same storm that had hit us earlier on our way to Bastia, so their plan was to stop in Malta for repairs before heading onwards to Tunisia.  However with all the extra worries now due to the attack on the World Trade Centre and Pentagon, they decided to forget about Tunisia and winter in Malta – so now we have sailing companions all the way home!

On the 2nd day in Porto Cervo some of the larger boats decided to sail off, but later we heard that one boat had broken its mast just 10 Miles out at sea in the Bonifacio Straits.  Don’t fight the weather in the Mediterranean!

3rd day in Porto Cervo – this looked like the day when I should finish reading Peter Høeg’s ”Frk. Smillas fornemmelse for sne” – as the wind was still blowing hard.  When suddenly at about 2.00 pm the wind turned 180 degees and slowed down to 6/8 metres /sec. And the sun came out.  Suddenly as if by magic all the crews came to life, including Sunray and our neighbour ”Fear of Flying”, within an hour we were ready to leave towards our new harbour – Porto Rotondo.

Here we were invited for dinner onboard  ”Fear of Flying”, so the next day we all had headaches and hangovers as we sailed a further 32 Miles south towards a brand new, totally deserted harbour – La Caletta.

The weather is more stable now, the sun is getting hot again and the sea is starting to tempt us to swim again. 

The company of Sheila, David, Jonathan and Mark has given us energy and confidence again for sailing.

Onwards to Santa Maria Navarrese, 41 Miles south, another deserted brandnew harbour. 

Next stop Porto Corallo where we decided all 6 of us should go out for dinner together.  We fould a local restaurant, complete with the obligatory 26” colour TV blaring away inside the restaurant and enjoyed a meal of anti pasti, grilled squid and Cernia, and a good cheap local white wine.  Coffee and cognac later on board Sunray, so it was late before we went to sleep again!

The Big Trip across to Sicily is looming up now, this is our last trip down the coast of Sardinia to Villasimius – yes, another deserted harbour !

Preparations for the long passage were made – amongst others – putting the lifelines out on deck, packing away the dinghy and tying it up securely on deck, tanking up diesel, water and a new gas cylinder (yet another new gas system – but that’s a long story!), preparing food that can be warmed up easily in the oven…

We said goodbye to Sheila who was flying home to England, and hello to Fear of Flying’s new crew members.  We were lucky to ”borrow” Mark for the passage across because there were enough hands on board Fear of Flying .. thank you !

So now all we had to do was sit and wait for the right weather forecast to set off …. It came the next day already !